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Anon
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D141 LVS



CF250P panel van with side load door, white, 84420 miles, first registered in Luton August 1986.
Apparently not been on the road since 1995 & kept garaged meanwhile.
Acquired with MoT certificate expiring May 2011 & running on 2 cylinders...

Transported to the wilds of East Lancashire by BSC Recovery, to lose the driver's door handle before it rolled off the truck (not their fault though - handle already broken & had been bodged on).

Day 1. Security, a strong smell of damp and a poorly engine.

Although the driver's door handle is broken it's pushed back on for now to cover the lock release inside; the van is parked driver's side tight against the fence to stop the door from being opened. Meanwhile, although the rear lock works (& the Peugeot behind isn't going anywhere - that's tight against the shed) neither the passenger door nor the side load doors could be locked from outside: both handles are bust where the clip that holds the lock barrel & lever should fit & between them & the driver's door there's only the one lever (fork thing in photo) & no clips -



For now the passenger door has the least broken handle bodged using an internal circlip in a groove melted into the plastic with lots of glue on top; with the side load door locked from inside I can at least keep the local urchins out of the van when I'm not looking.

The rear floor is sheeted with chipboard but that's bone dry so the cab got stripped first -



There's some welding to do: driver's seat base front left floor mounting -



The weld remnants next to the crack was where the broken seat base had been tacked to the floor.

Left rear floor mounting for the seat base -



Driver's door step -



That's it: despite the foreboding as rotting floor matting came out, rust elsewhere is only skin deep & the cab floor just needs cleaning & repainting. Driver's seat squab (knackered) & seat base probably will take longer to sort out than the cab floor.

Engine misfire was tracked down to cylinders 1 & 2: Air-Vac vacuum pipe connectors had perished & split -



Fix -



One fitted at servo non-return valve -



and to the vacuum motor on the air filter (to left of black case) -



& check the air filter element same time: seems to be nearly new.

Checked the ignition system anyway and also did a compression test while the spark plugs were out: 150 to 165 psi.

Seller of the van said that the crankshaft front oil seal needs replacing & there is a drip that looks ominous -



but with a bowl underneath the drips turned out to be oily water -



more water pump leak than crankshaft front seal.

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Sun 13 Jun 2010 @ 00:30 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Long race was started ;-)

Hello Phil, one questions to you.
Which engine is in your van?

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Sun 13 Jun 2010 @ 03:20 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Alex. Engine is 2-litre Opel petrol.
It's standard CF2 (97370) for the year - front disc brakes, 10-inch rear brakes on a Bedford lightweight axle, ZF 5-speed gearbox.

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Sun 13 Jun 2010 @ 11:22 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks

I wish you good luck in restoration process.

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Sun 13 Jun 2010 @ 14:17 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hi Phil

How are you doing ?..........now if you need any nice curtains etc just let me know

margaret

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Mon 14 Jun 2010 @ 19:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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brilliant looking panel phil, really jealous vans like this are thinner on the ground than snow in summer, never mind a clean panel van good luck and loving the thread already

jim

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Tue 15 Jun 2010 @ 23:28 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Congratulations on your purchase Phil, I was watching this one myself and was surprised when bidding didn't reach £500 first time round. Didn't bid myself in the end as I'm holding out for a cheap, rust free, low mileage panel van with sliding front doors...!
Wed 16 Jun 2010 @ 22:03 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Day 2 cab floor repairs

Driver's seat base floor mounting points welded; front -



Cracks stitched up then finished flush using a 4" disc flap wheel before welding a repair washer on top. Remains of seat base to floor weld 'repair' ground off as well.

Rear mounting point done likewise, floor cleaned with soap & water then all bare metal given a coat of Kurust -



Once Kurust had gone off, floor cleaned again and, once dry, Granville over-paintable PU caulk was run into seams that grinned too wide for paint to seal -



then a coat of primer once the caulk had cured (2 hours) -



International solvent-base metal primer used: what I had lying about that I've found works well with Tekaloid (also lying about, Traffic White) rather than a particular choice.

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Thu 17 Jun 2010 @ 00:45 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Days 3 to 5 Watching paint dry

All bare metal & Kurust treated areas primed -



Meanwhile the driver's seat got patched starting with rebuilding the squab cushion -



New basecloth spray glued on -



Chipped foam layered up using spray glue -



until well proud of required contour then given a haircut to smooth out the line to match the other side of the cushion.

Squab cover sewn up along the piping seam & a new backcloth added before stuffing the cushion in with a layer of Dacron over the chip foam & rebuilding the seat. Not a particularly good job because the vinyl of the cover has gone hard with age but it'll do for a while.

Driver's seat base well shot -



but Scoobydoo let me have the one she took out of her van when she fitted different seats so that had a lick of bashing & some paint before fitting it.

Result so far: all but the driver's step fettled & undercoated, driver's seat base bolted down onto a bed of PU sealer & seat plonked in position -





Another day yet before the passenger seat base will be ready to fit and still the crack in the driver's step to repair...

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Thu 24 Jun 2010 @ 19:42 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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A bit of wiring

Some loose wires that got tidied up: a piece of speaker cable stuffed into the +12V terminal of the heater switch -



Radio wiring & left side courtesy lamp switch cable (purple+white) -





Radio wiring isn't what it should be for factory fit but it's been done tidily enough to use as is with a 3A line fuse on the supply (purple - red+white is from the dash illumination circuit, probably for display dim function of radio that was fitted).

A new bulb later in the courtesy lamp -

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Thu 24 Jun 2010 @ 21:02 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Day 6 Side load door realign

The van came with the side load door bottom hinge looking like it had had a wallop (along with the sill below the door, well buckled) -



I was going to leave realigning the door as part of the rolling restoration the van will be getting once I can use it. However, I'm going to fit a bulkhead behind the seats first & while I was sizing things up a problem arose: the bulkhead side support obscures access through the apertures in the B post -



On top of this, once the plastic trim was scraped from the bottom of the B post I discovered a very good reason to remove all the CF2 stick-on trim -



The B post otherwise is sound as is everything it's attached to at the bottom so it withstood the bending & bashing to straighten the hinge mounting point (door removed with hinges); door had similar treatment & both have been roughly finished until I can move the van away from the house & open the door fully to do a better job of it -



The remains of the trim adhesive is proving to be a pain to remove...

Door fit now, weather seal actually meeting the top of the door frame as it should -





Much work to do on the door yet: apart from creases in the outer skin, the latch edge looks it has had a crowbar in it & then the edge has been bashed back down with hammer & chisel. Net result is that I can't adjust the lock striker properly because the outer edge of the door fouls the body -



The door shuts ok though so that'll do for now.

Meanwhile, with the passenger seat base bashed back into more or less the right shape, de-rusted, primed & undercoated off the van, cab floor, seat bases & passenger step have had a coat of gloss -



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Fri 25 Jun 2010 @ 23:13 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Day 7 Gear lever, handbrake lever

The reason for gear selection being somewhat vague -



The turret is ok though -



The pivot pins are hardened and although they were loose once they were removed & cleaned up good old Loctite (Bearing Fit) came to the rescue prior to refitting the gear lever.

Gear lever repair -



Much hand filing of the ball profile where it sits in the turret & the 2 slots until one of the pivot pins from the turret fitted, most of it using a small flat file: a bit slow.

A wipe of CV joint grease on the plastic bearings in the turret socket & under the retainer cap before refitting -



followed by the dust boot -



Can find all the gears first time now.

Splits in the top of the gear lever boot wouldn't glue together very well so some rubber tap washers were fitted using cyanocryolate adhesive, one at a time so that each could be clamped in place using a bolt, nut & washers while the adhesive cured -



Handbrake lever needed a good clean before lubricating the ratchet & pawl & fitting a temporary grip layered up using textured heat shrink sleeving -



Refitting -



First, cable for the switch needs to be passed through the hole in the handbrake lever floor plate -



Correct operation of the switch by the right hand edge of the lever is achieved by positioning the switch bracket appropriately as the bolt through the lever is tightened -



Earth cable eyelet is trapped between clean faces of the switch bracket & lever.

With a bulb in the warning lamp (it was missing...) -



Left, handbrake on; right, handbrake off. This lamp also is for the brake pressure differential warning (PDW) switch on the brake master cylinder that kicks in if either of the tandem systems springs a leak. The handbrake lever switch in fact is the test switch for the PDW system so it's never a good idea to remove the bulb when the handbrake switch needs adjusting...

Finishing off: gear lever & handbrake lever boots, floor bungs & gear lever knob -



Th gear lever knob needed a 3/8" UNF nut underneath it before the knob could be tightened & stay tight; some trial & error getting the position right before securing the nut with a dab of Loctite threadlocker.

Engine cover aperture seal had peeled off intact (2 pieces, one over the top edge, the other around the floor edge) so it was refitted using spray glue. Cover itself isn't so easy to fit yet but it will be easier when the passenger seat is fitted once it's had some mending (sitting on the base isn't too comfortable); the cover needs some bending too so that the front 2 floor pegs align with the cover holes without too much cussing & kicking.

A little annoyance sorted as last job before packing up for the day: the side load door lock was fouling the latch -



Take 1 rubber mallet ... to smack the latch to bend the frame about 2mm towards the rear of the van.

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Sun 27 Jun 2010 @ 23:52 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Midnight oil - lighting stalk switch

What the van came with -



The lighting switch is CF2; both stalk switches work electrically but the indicator self cancel only worked on one side and the switches swivelled as a lump on the steering column tube; a matching set would be so much better too.

Out of spare stalk switches to hand the best match was an earlier lighting switch to go with the existing wipers switch but it had a broken eyelet terminal on the dip beam cable (blue+red).

The broken pieces from original (1, 2) & spare (3) switches -



The broken lug is what should engage in a slot in the steering column tube to prevent the switches from turning on the tube.

Finished item -



Socket terminals locking tabs need to be poked inwards in order to remove terminals from the harness moulding; afterwards the tabs need to be prised out as in the inset photo in order to lock the terminal back in the moulding.

Switch body pivot pin needs to be drilled & tapped out to take a set screw, in this case a pan head 5.32" UNF screw pinched from a Delco distributor (vacuum unit securing screw). The pivot length to the shoulder under the ground off end must not be reduced past removal of remnants of the smaller diameter ground off end or the indicator switch part won't move.

The 5/32" screw used isn't round in section but has a triangular form that allows a thread rolling action as the screw meets the end of the cut thread in the switch body pivot pin; this has effect of locking the screw in the pivot pin. (A normal round section screw will require threadlocker adhesive.)

A star washer between the eyelet terminal on the green+brown cable and washer beneath prevents movement of the eyelet terminal that could loosen the grip of the screw.

The smaller pivot pin in the stalk itself can be re-used after lightly counter-sinking the holes in the switch body and drilling the ground off end of the pin 1mm diameter about 1.5mm deep for staking with a centre punch whilst supporting the other end of the pin on a flat-end punch gripped in a vice.

An alternative is to replace the original pin with a 1/8" Sellock roll spring pin (file or drill out plastic to suit, tight fit in the switch body, slack fit in the stalk end) provided the Sellock pin does not protrude sufficiently to short against terminals close to both ends.

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Mon 28 Jun 2010 @ 11:00 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Great job Phil......you are doing a marvelous job !!



margaret

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Mon 28 Jun 2010 @ 14:52 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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awsome job so far phil absolutly love the van, loving the progress you are making

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Mon 28 Jun 2010 @ 18:32 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Great job Phil..You always make it look sooooo easy !

Shirl

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Mon 28 Jun 2010 @ 22:58 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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The hard part is conjuring up fixes that don't involve spending money I haven't got...

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Tue 29 Jun 2010 @ 00:26 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Day 8

Came to move the van so that the crack in the front of the driver's step could be repaired, to find the left side mirror head on the floor -



the driver's door handle missing -



and a puddle in the driver's foot well -



Mirror was loose anyway so probably only needed a nudge to fall off & just the one puddle after the thunderstorm a few days back ain't so bad. Can't fathom why anyone would bother to rip off the door handle though: with the van tight against the fence the door would open about 2 inches max.

So that's a pair of LDV/LandRover mirror arms & heads to buy, reseal wiper spindle housings & hope the screen isn't the culprit & go for earlier chromed alloy handles (plastic handles are the pits in my view - one smack & they're off).

Lighting stalk switch installed -



but the horn didn't work; turned out to be a bad earth at the horn.

Screenwash & wipers had a looking at while I was tinkering at the front. Left side washer jet had to have the ball popped out of the plastic body before the crud inside could be blown out - one to do after soaking the jet in hot water to make the plastic pliable - and the reason for the wipers barely touching the screen was superfluous pins -



The arms have 7mm straight ends & the fittings are right for them & the rivet in each blade; the pins are for side pin arms & fitting them as in the top photo just jammed the blades rigid on the arms so that just the lower edge wiped the screen. Now got a clean screen, on the outside anyway.

Driver's step repaired & finished as far as undercoat -



Heater cover panel found in the junk parts in the back of the van when it was delivered -



Passenger side floor mat has had something leak or spill on it that has softened the rubber -

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Thu 01 Jul 2010 @ 00:06 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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How many hours are in your day to do all you do ...& help others as well ..it's going to be a beaut when finished

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Thu 01 Jul 2010 @ 07:24 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Hold your horses, Phil- you have Pmail!

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Thu 01 Jul 2010 @ 08:25 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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