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Anon
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Day 9
Passenger seat refitted after much sewing of split squab seam closest to the door -
Like the driver's seat, the squab cushion isn't too clever but only because something has been spilled on the seat that melts PU foam. Driver's seat squab is sagging already: can't pull the cover tight enough to make it any better with or without any more padding for fear of the cover tearing though. At least the squab doesn't bottom on the frame like it did before the seat was patched up.
Tears in headlining patched, biggest one about 4 inch long -
Sod's Law that what looked fine with the headlining hanging down loose pulled cock-eyed once the headlining was back in place. Oh well. Doesn't shout as much as not doing anything about the tears before fitting the bulkhead behind the seats: bulkhead top panel fits just in front of where the wiring for the courtesy lamp hangs down.
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 Sun 04 Jul 2010 @ 21:28
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Anon
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vans looking great phil mate,
i use a wee trick when i am doing vinyl roof lineings at work to shrink cracks when i have repaired them like you have, get a heat gun and just waft heat at the effected area should shrink the pull areas and tighten the roof up a wee bit 
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Sun 04 Jul 2010 @ 22:55
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Anon
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Headlining photo was taken straight after refitting the headlining & it has flattened down a bit already. I'm going to see what a few days of sunshine does first & how much the bulkhead top panel adds to headlining stretch before attacking it with a heat gun...
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Sun 04 Jul 2010 @ 23:45
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Day 10 Rear floor & bulkhead
Got round to lifting the chipboard from the rear floor & removing a bucketful of sand & dust in the process.
Left side, forwards of the wheel house -
Left side rear corner -
Detail of closing panel above rear lower corner -
Not as much to do as I expected & right side looks to be clean enough to seal up as it is -
One oddity: the fuel tank vent hose looks like it's been eaten -
First fit of the bulkhead behind the seats -
Side supports are riveted to the B posts: 3/16" diameter steel pop rivets, 26 off, is heavy going with arthritic thumbs...
Bulkhead is a bit knocked about & needs some bashing yet to fit nicely before removing the seats to get at the bottom edge where it's screwed directly to the floor -
The floor mounting for the passenger seat belts is the hard part when it comes to final fit of the bulkhead because the lap belt & inertia belt stalk buckles won't pass through the aperture in the middle of the seat: seat has to be in place before the belt mounting can be bolted to the floor.
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Mon 05 Jul 2010 @ 23:48
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Anon
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Day 11 Locks - cab door handles
A set of 4 LandRover same key lock barrels turned up today so the cab doors got earlier metal handles to replace the plastic ones.
Once a handle is in pieces the lock barrel can be removed by pressing in the small spring-loaded brass locking pin & levering the barrel from the press button shell -
Only 1 of 5 wards still intact in this barrel; any old key fits...
LandRover barrels have thinner escutcheon flange ends where the key enters & need a packing to prevent the barrel from moving out too much when the key is withdrawn: a 13mm diameter internal circlip is just the thing -
Push button assembly -
Handle assembly -
Stud at button end had come out with the seized-on nut; Loctite threadlocker used to retain stud once nut removed. 10-12mm protrusion limit is for the fork to clear when it turns with the key.
The really fiddly bit: fitting the butt end circlip -
Second handle was more of a fight due to corrosion but in the end I won & now there's key access both sides of the cab -
Repaired plastic handle that came off the passenger door now is on the side load door; repair isn't likely to last for very long -
but meanwhile it'll save having to move the van to get in through the back doors in order to unlock the side load door now the bulkhead prevents access from the cab.
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Tue 06 Jul 2010 @ 22:41
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Anon
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Day 12 Rear door handle
Door handle dismantled, parts cleaned & ready for reassembly -
The key has to stay in the lock barrel all the while it's not in the handle: the wards in the metal barrel in the rear handle can fly out when not being watched & it takes a while to find the tiny springs...
Most of what was wrong with the handle was loose securing screws - 2 socket cap screws which to my surprise turned out to be 5/32" UNF when I had to find a spare nut - and caked gunge in the barrel sleeve holding most of the wards in the unlock position.
Drive eccentric clicks onto the end of the barrel (spring loaded brass pin like cab lock barrels); square section locking piece is fitted so that the peg on the eccentric engages in the cut out -
then the solid dowel is tapped in to engage in the groove in the drive eccentric -
Handle assembly -
Once the handle was back together I realised that there should be a stop pin in the hole in the handle base that is screwed to the door to prevent the handle from being turned backwards -
Take the handle apart again...
3/16" diameter Sellock roll spring pin is a good fit in the hole; 1" pins that I have are too long & the pin had to have about 1/4" ground off after it was fitted.
Drive square fitted -
The end of the square in the handle is shaped to accommodate built in misalignment of handle with the latch release square.
Extra bits: stiffener bars made up to prevent the door outer skin flexing around the handle -
Final fit -
Stiffener bars fixed to door inner skin using M5 bolts; bolts hidden by door card.
From the outside -
The lock to make use of the hasp & staple that the van came with is a Chinese one (£2.50 from the local cheap shop) but it wouldn't fit until I'd removed the hasp & staple to replace large head roofing bolts with high tensile ones with heads that the hasp would clear & then adjust the door latches so that the doors met flush in the middle.
Had a look at why the left side reverse lamp didn't work before packing up for the day, to lose first the sidelight then the indicator lamp before I'd finished -
Everything now working but one to look at again: wiring in poor light isn't much fun.
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Thu 08 Jul 2010 @ 00:42
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Anon
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Day 13
Rainwater puddle collecting in the driver's footwell was tracked down to a leak at the bottom of the screen near the corner, the water entering at the top just below the gutter rail drain slot.
Take a number of clothes pegs and a cartridge of Tex screen sealer -
The pegs are wedged in to lift the seal far enough to get sealer in the rebate rather than at the edge of the rubber -
Cartridge nozzle cut to 6mm opening; pegs removed one at a time in front of the nozzle, from top to bottom. The Tex sealer when dry has similar look & feel as Dum-Dum sealer; horribly messy straight out of the cartridge though; cleans off paintwork with white spirit.
Fuel tank breather fix: a length of plastic reinforced hose -
Original rubber hose looks like it's been gnawed away by rodents.
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Wed 14 Jul 2010 @ 20:45
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Anon
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Phil, thanks for your last post about windshield seal repair. This is what I will make tomorrow ;-)
Looks, as your post was addressed directly to me right in time and right in place ;-) One more time, thanks a lot. :-)
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Wed 14 Jul 2010 @ 23:11
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Anon
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Me too - that looks like a great idea. I'm still leaking too although mine is STILL coming in from the gutters no matter what I do  . Which sealant have you used here Phil?
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Thu 15 Jul 2010 @ 07:19
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Anon
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Tex sealer: ebay item 260583040307. It's not an adhesive type & can be peeled off fairly easily once it's cured so it won't interfere with replacing the screen rubber when I get round to it.
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Thu 15 Jul 2010 @ 09:42
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Good grief Phil, you can even make clothes pegs look like an art form![bow]
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Thu 15 Jul 2010 @ 21:48
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Anon
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Hi Phil - cracking job and blog as usual;]
Will you be kitting her out in the back as a 'camper cum workshop'? With all the travelling you do as your mission to rescue duff CF's, a basic camping set-up in the back (bed / cooker/heating stove) would make life a little more comfortable!!!!
See you soon,
Carl
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Fri 16 Jul 2010 @ 10:07
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Anon
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Workshop with living for 1 up front will need a CF350 code 035 140-inch wheelbase chassis cab with a steel frame Hawson body with 2ft rear extension ...
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Fri 16 Jul 2010 @ 22:58
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Days 14, 15 Cab nearly back together
Final fit of the bulkhead behind the seats -
Drill points screws made the floor fixing easy using a cordless driver once the passenger seat had been removed.
Top panel has to be riveted to the roof brace -
2 holes already are provided, 2nd hole in from each side of the top panel; once they had 3/8" rivets in the panel lower screws pulled it straight for drilling for the rest of the rivets. That's 35 steel rivets altogether for side supports & top panel.
From the back -
The ends of the horizontal box section are secured to the side supports by 1/4" bolts & nuts, 2 each side. Needs the glass to be left out until all 4 bolts are tight...
Damage to the glazing rubber is how it came, along with the filler bead on the other side being too short as if someone hadn't realised that it should be a little over-long & had cut off what they thought was excess before the bead had pulled back (it stretches a bit when being fitted).
Managed to bodge the broken mirror head ball socket on the passenger side -
There's enough of the plastic socket inside the alloy part of the head to hold the mirror as tight as the driver's side, i.e. head stays put when the door is slammed but will swivel for adjustment. It's not a fix I'm pleased with but it only has to last until I can splash out on some LandRover mirrors.
Door before -
and after, tidied up around the handle as well & finished to primer -
Seat belts refitted -
Inertia reel belt top mountings are the only ones to have shouldered spacers, to allow the shoulder belt run to return to vertical when it's not being used.
What's left to do in the cab is trim & can wait now; floor coverings aren't going down anyway until I'm sure there's no more leaks.
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Thu 22 Jul 2010 @ 23:04
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Anon
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Day 16 Rear floor
Bits of welding done in the floor in the left side rear corner -
Holes in the closing panel above the lower corner & back edge of the wheel arch have been covered over with steel stuck on with filler, more to stop anything falling into the lower corner box section that's had all the mud & bits cleaned out of it ready for a dose of WaxOyl once the outside is tidied up & painted.
Cab step mats refitted with having to tidy up what's collected in the back of the van before welding the floor -
Load apportioning valve (LAV) plate from the passenger side stuck back on with double-sided sticky pads; old sticky stuff came off using methylene chloride paint stripper.
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Fri 23 Jul 2010 @ 22:53
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Anon
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Looking good. How did you get that crease out the door Phil? Got exactly the same on wifes car but I reckon the metal has stretched so haven't tried to knock it out. Probably look for another door. But your work looks excellent. How?
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Sat 24 Jul 2010 @ 18:43
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The crease looked like the result of the mirror being clonked so, with the mirror post removed, I used the holes in the door to bolt on a piece of flat bar with a plate on the inside of the door & heaved on the bar. It didn't take out all the crease so it got a skin of filler that was profiled using 80 grit aluminium oxide paper wrapped over a piece of 2x1 then finished with a palm sander (120 grit).
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Sat 24 Jul 2010 @ 18:55
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Day 17 Welding finished, for now; batteries; starter motor
Floor repaired on left side in front of the wheel house -
Some of the tack welds securing the edge cover plate in the door opening had broken; plate had to be levered up in order to remove the rubbish that had collected underneath it before re-welding it.
Rear doors both were fractured around the check link aperture and the stop pins had seen better days -
Mended (left side, right side similar) -
The inner spring is needed to prevent the end of the check link from gouging the outer door panel from the inside - only needed for longer (later) link arms with 2 stop positions. A wipe of LM grease on the link arms makes them work smoothly - often neglected...
Cab seems to be dry now so the last bits have been done while waiting for paint to dry in the back: passenger footwell side panel -
Passenger side soundproofing mat -
Rubber mat still has a soft spot where something has attacked the rubber -
Another rubber mat on top, trapped by the step edge finisher to keep it in place -
Driver's side floor mat has some holes in it -
So that's got an extra mat too -
Swapped the battery that came with the van for a beefier one (550CCA - cold cranking Amps - handy for starting diesel engines) and renewed the starter cable terminal -
Unlike earlier vans the cable is fine strand which needs a ferrule in order to fit the bolt-on terminal properly.
The cradle has room for an 85Ah leisure battery, fitted along with a voltage sensing split charge relay -
Main earth is fitted to the edge of the floor aperture where I found it, the tired-looking braided cable being replaced by stranded 16mm cable with eyelet ends.
Working -
Just some battery clamps to buy & fit & at the same time hang the relay off the leisure battery clamp rather than rely on sticky pads on top of the battery.
Enough for one day I thought: packed everything away and came to move the van, to find that the starter motor wouldn't work. So, disconnect the main earth at the batteries & off it came -
Starter is a 3-brush Delco unit with the brushes worn at an angle & sticking (or maybe sticking then worn to an angle - hard to tell with so much dust & bits in the brush holder) & also a well worn drive end bush. Photo is after everything cleaned up so that the brushes don't stick in their holders; starter tested ok once it was back in one piece so it's been refitted as it is rather than disable the van while finding bits to mend the starter properly.
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Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 20:34
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Anon
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I love your blogs, Phil, and come to that, everyones- it means I can identify other areas that can be improved in my own van or get new ideas. The footwell side panel looks like a good idea- but I guess Id probably have to make my own up! Glad to see progress is coming along so well- I can't wait to see itin the flesh!
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Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 20:51
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Anon
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2 more days from now & I'll be able to tax the van & actually use it ... & find out what breaks first. It's going to be interesting.:D
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Tue 27 Jul 2010 @ 22:08
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