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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Want a free keyboard?
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 19:47
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Thanks, but the easiest fix is £3 for a new keyboard from MicroDirect next time I'm in Manchester. ----------------------
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 19:58
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Oh, ok, just found one laying around while packing, and would gladly send it over if you needed it. I really like the blog by the way.
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 20:59
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	phil i had the melting on mine about ten years ago did the same .i think mine melted coz i put 80w lamps in mine,havnt had a proplem since
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 21:13
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	I think what killed the dip terminal was the contacts not being very good when the switch got made up out of 2 broken ones & then daylight running with dipped headlights in heavy rain so I must have missed the flickering when the contacts were going bad again. Relays are £2 each: end of problem. ----------------------
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 21:40
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	luckerly i had a spare one and just fitted the relay but i put relays on both dip and high beam and now my hght beam is very dim .i have swoped them around and the dimming swops around all the earths are good any idear
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 22:07
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Hi we get this at work quite a lot and will be high resistace across the contacts. Matthew
Tue 16 Nov 2010 @ 22:21
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	5 months further on Bits that have needed looking at since November started with the wiper blades, the side pin ones that the van came with splitting at the first frost, so the van got treated to some new Bosch blades. First problem was that they flopped about too much on the original side pin fittings on the arms so they got some 7mm push-on adaptors instead. Lovely once the lay-over was adjusted for quiet sweep in both directions. Then came more and colder weather and a series of busted 7mm fittings but luckily each time a wiper blade fell off it got rescued before anything ran over it and one that fell off on the M60 kindly sat on the bonnet against the screen wash jet while I made it to the hard shoulder. Remedy was a dose of Araldite Rapid - January saw a set of new tyres, Hankook 195R14 8-ply; not before time too because out of 6 tyres 3 came off the rims with bulges in them & I also discovered that one of the rims is a very early tube type without the ridge each side for a tubeless tyre bead. With the new tyres on, 35 psi front & 45 psi rear, it was a different van, until things started feeling a bit loose a few weeks later. A poke & prod around the front end revealed a track rod end and a top ball joint gone sloppy. All set to fit new ones but once the loose track rod end was off and boot removed it was still bright inside and not completely dried out so I tried a trick that I've not used for a long time: oil the joint then wallop the cap opposite the ball pin to see whether it was just a stuck ball seating. Joy: ball joint went nice and tight & the ball pin would compress against the seating spring so it got some fresh grease under the boot and it went back on. Top ball joint got the same treatment because that also was clean & bright under the boot and that too sprung back to being nice and tight. With a bit of luck they might last a while longer now they've got some grease in. Front brake pads got renewed while I had the wheels off & for good measure the calipers came off as well so that I could winkle out the hub bearings to clean them & repack with fresh grease. The Delphi pads that I'd got from the local spares shop didn't come with a fittings kit so that was extra; they also didn't come with squeal deterrent shims, instead having a coating on the back of the pads that does the same job. So that's another annoying noise dealt with. Meanwhile the radiator cap disappeared; I only discovered this at Knutsford services on the M6 after a blast up from Telford, about 200 mile since the last time I'd topped up the radiator. Strange thing is that the coolant level was ok & the heater was still nice and hot so I drove home & picked up a new cap next morning. Pound to a penny if the weather had been warm then things would have been a bit different... Came across some wire trays than had been binned so after a bit of trimming and adding some bits the back door windows had some protection added - Need another tray now to do the bulkhead window, more to prevent me breaking it than anything else... By the end of February fuel consumption figures had taken a dive - down to 4.5mile/litre - and the engine just would not pull right up the M62 to the summit. Not a happy bunny, until I decided to check the cylinder compression & found that the spark plugs were full of cr*p. Compression was fine - 140 psi - and a new set of NGK plugs got rid of a whole bundle of not quite rightness, most noticeable as not being happy trundling along at 30 mph without a fair bit of pedal. Air filter got renewed as well: the one that the van came with had got past its best with collecting a load of dust in the pleats. March saw the heater go cold on me and the temperature gauge started reading low. So out came the thermostat, only it was already part way out & wedged sideways in the housing because the O-ring seal had split & found its way into the top radiator hose. New O-ring seal & a circlip robbed from a thermostat kit I had lying about sorted that. And to the present: the exhaust silencer decided to split along the bodge repair that I inherited with the van so off it came - Once the bodge was cut away the state of the innards wasn't much better: the silencer is a 3-box affair, an expansion box at the front, a transfer box in the middle between the open end of the front tube and the pinched together end of the rear tube that has all the holes in and a muffler box at the rear only the baffle at the front of the muffler box was half eaten away, the front baffle had parted from the case and the glass wool packing that should have been in the muffler box had long gone. No wonder it sounded tinny before the split opened up. Two days later and after much head scratching with being skint but having an old silencer to chop up for tin & glass wool: both baffles rebuilt and an inner frame constructed out of some flat bar for something to weld to - Not pretty and probably will rust quite quickly but it will buy some time to save up for something better. Silencer back on with a home brew support made up to fit - Back end is peppered too - so it's off to the favourite scrap yard next week to find some bits to weld together and while I'm at it do something about the bend over the axle being too close to the rear floor - back end is for a Carlton & someone has chopped & bent one of the floor braces to make it fit. Also discovered where the engine oil leak that's been bugging me is coming from, via one of the the fuel pump vent holes but getting blown everywhere by the radiator fan so hard to locate wihtout lying under the front for a while & watching - This could be due to wear between the push rod and pump body but it also could be an indicator of a problem with the engine ventilation; spare pump stuck on for now to see whether this makes any difference. ----------------------
Sat 16 Apr 2011 @ 23:52
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	wipers i did this with mine but i heated them up and melted the on . by heating the arms up then dipping them in cold water, but they where stainless arm . they work a treat.
Sun 17 Apr 2011 @ 21:00
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Fixing the exhaust silencer has improved things, rather more than expected too because along with substantial reduction in noise level and lack of exhaust fume being dragged in when driving with a window open the engine is pulling much better than anticipated. Run out to Wharfedale was effortless compared to previous trips that way & coming back loaded to about 2400kg was just as smooth with only the big hill on the A56 from the M65 junction slowing the van down to 40mph. Best bit: there was more petrol left in the tank than I expected. Oil still leaking from the fuel pump though so the rocker cover came off because despite the amount of pressure evident with the oil filler cap removed there was b-all coming out of the vent hose with the vacuum bleed blocked off: sure sign that the wire gauze in the cover is well choked. After a session with a blow lamp - There was a lot of crud to burn out: ash in the dust pan is what came out once the gauze could be extracted. Nylon scourers (folded over then cut to length) to replace the crumbly wire gauze from both ends of the baffle - Rocker cover treated to a lick of paint on the outside and a new gasket; now it's back on the engine when the oil filler cap is removed the idle speed changes slightly and a piece of cling film over the oil filler aperture stays on instead of blowing off so it looks like the engine is venting properly now. Whether the oil leak will dry up remains to be seen... ----------------------
Fri 22 Apr 2011 @ 19:08
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Decided to have a do at the rear brake pipes because I was a bit wary of the state of them under liberal amounts of grease that could have been a cover-up for the last MoT test. However, underneath all the grease the pipes aren't too bad and in places still bright so they got a clean-up and some more grease and some new insulators made from split lengths of 1/4-inch fuel hose - Some scrubbing & sealing up to be done under the floor where the original underseal has fallen off... With the back end of the van on stands it seemed an opportune moment to reinstate the missing tow bar bolt - Being a 10mm cylinder head bolt, a new tube through the floor to sit on the chassis longitudinal to come flush with the floor, some washers and a couple of nuts. A poke & prod at the trailer socket revealed a clean socket but nothing working; reason was corroded twisted wire tap connections and a couple of equally corroded ScotchLok type connectors under loads of sticky tape - The trailer socket harness had been patched in to the original harness where the offside rear lamps wiring splits off from the main harness in the rear corner under the van, in the way of spray from the offside rear wheel. Not the best place for any wiring connections but with having to make good the damage so that it would be water resistant it seemed simplest to patch in the trailer socket harness with the repair. Part way done - The original wiring has crimp connections on the stop, reverse & fog lights wiring to provide left & right wiring split (tail lights have separate feeds); only the reverse lights wiring remained intact, the rest being damaged by inept stripping for the twisted wire tap connections. Finished - Tight double wrap of non-sticky PVC harness tape with a bit of yellow sticky tape to prevent a tie-off from unraveling. Trailer socket earth wire brought out of the harness to patch into the number plate lamps earth then heat shrink sealed. It ain't much fun wiring from underneath & I've got a stiff neck to show for it but now the trailer socket works and intermittent faults on the rear lights have cleared too. Just need something to hitch up to the van now... ----------------------
Tue 26 Apr 2011 @ 20:04
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	a trailer tent for meets maybe:# ----------------------
Tue 26 Apr 2011 @ 22:14
bluebedouin Global Moderator Posts : 2444 Location : Northampton,England. Status : Offline	philbradshaw wrote: .... Just need something to hitch up to the van now... If only you'd had my nice little blue caravan? ;D ----------------------
Tue 26 Apr 2011 @ 22:21
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Might be best to get the van through the MoT test first! Dunno where I'd put a trailer or caravan anyway - there's still a Peugeot 406 in the way that needs fettling to get it back on the road. ----------------------
Tue 26 Apr 2011 @ 23:04
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	A bit of routine maintenance cropped up, engine oil and filter change, in part because it was due by mileage and in part because occasional clatter from the hyraulic tappets at higher engine speeds had gotten persistent. Oil change uneventful in itself - a Mann W712 filter (equivalent to Fram PH966B) that came in the pile of bits in the back of the van when I got it, 5.5 litre of Delco 10/W40 oil and a new sump plug washer - but the clattering from the hydraulic tappets didn't quite go away & seemed to be on the way to being as bad as before by each mile. The tappets weren't too clever when the head had to come off when the valve springs broke: a lot of pitting of the tappet bodies - That's not enough to make them clatter but since the head job I've acquired a few sets of tappets with the Manta engine that's destined to replace the original engine at some point so I dug out a set of likely contenders and took them apart. The spring inside has to be compressed a little to make it easier to remove the retainer - Once the retainer is off the plunger inside the tappet should come out fairly easily. Sod's Law that with being stored the plunger of each tappet was gummed in so it took much degreaser and a right angle probe in the oil drilling in the side of the plunger to twist and pull each one out - From left to right: tappet body; spring; plunger; seating; retainer. Inside the plunger is a spring loaded ball valve - With the plunger open end upwards and filled with petrol to the level of the oil drilling there should be no leakage out of the bottom. First tappet to come apart passed this test so it was filled with oil then reassembled before taking apart another one because plungers and bodies are selectively matched so mustn't be swapped. To refit the retainer the tappet has to be compressed again, this time so that the plunger will move at all against pressure built up in the oil between the plunger and tappet body; seepage between the the two takes a while due to minimal clearance but eventually the seating shoulder does go flush with the top of the tappet and the retainer can be fitted. After a messy hour or so there were 8 shiny and working tappets lined up ready. Replacement is easy because once a rocker arm is removed its tappet can be withdrawn and another one (liberally oiled) dropped in. Then the rocker arm is replaced and the adjuster nut tightened to just take out any clearance. Once all the tappets had been replaced adjustment was the same as before when renewing the valve springs, i.e. with the engine running including making an oily mess over the bulkhead with not bothering with a baffle plate over the timing chain. You'd think I would have made one by now... With everything back together it only needed the engine cover to go back on before a test run to check things out but then a misfire kicked in. Mild panic before it dawned that there wasn't any accompanying clatter from any of the tappets and the caused was revealed soon enough by pulling plug leads off one by one to see which cylinder was affected (number 2) - Must have disturbed it without realising it & the end finally fell off inside the plug shroud; not given any trouble before now. New plug leads to hand were for the slant engine, i.e. a bit too long for the Opel engine, so they needed some help to keep them away from the engine cover - And then a spin down the M60: no clatter now and the engine seems to pull better too. ----------------------
Sat 30 Apr 2011 @ 22:56
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	'Twas a rosy fingered dawn... The fine weather was too good to a chance to miss for getting some painting done with having few days off from the slave job so the front end got taken apart, i.e. everything stripped from the front panel with a view to turning it back to black instead of white over-spray that has annoyed me since I got the van - The easy bit was removing loose stuff with a wire brush, a few dabs of Fertan rust treatment on the supports for the filler strip under the grille (thanks geebee - Fertan works a treat & cured in about 4 hours in direct sun), a good wash, dry off for a while then slobber some black paint on - One coat of pound shop gloss black, due a second thinned down flash coat once the first has had 24 hours to harden off. The radiator can wait until it gets a new core, when it should come back all black, and the inside of the panel can go all black next time it's removed. The hard bit was dealing the front bumper, primarily to get at one of the welded support webs that had rusted away - First problem was detaching the plastic corners, each retained by M6 studs and well rusted nuts so that the seized M8 bolts could be removed from the web support bracket - Fortunately after a bit of bashing & cussing the 3 studs unscrewed from the captive plates in both the corner pieces - after which a blowlamp could be used to cook the M8 bolts in the bumper supports to release them. While the corner pieces were off the bracket on each that bolts to a brace attached to the front of the chassis outrigger also was removed for realigning by using a small nut splitter to deform the M8 nuts so that they would turn without snapping the captive bolts on the corner piece - The hardened flange nut (Astra exhaust manifold nut) used to hold the bracket while working on the second nut made a handy thread restorer. Once the M8 nuts were off and the brackets reshaped the M6 studs lost their rusty nuts by simply splitting the nuts with a cold chisel; threads cleaned up and provided with new nuts, washers and lock washers - Gloss paint on the corners inherited with the van looked 'orrible - so it and the patches of white & blue paint underneath got scrubbed off using 120 grit aluminium oxide paper followed by lots of water with 180 grade wet & dry paper then nylon scourer to get somewhere close to original semi-matt finish - Then do the same with the other side ... that little lot took all day and still the bumper to do before anything can be bolted back on. ----------------------
Tue 03 May 2011 @ 02:47
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Watching paint dry Front bumper support web mended, back primed in red oxide (actually red zinc phosphate) then well larded with gloss black after 24 hours for the red oxide to cure properly - (The apparent thin coat in 2 places is reflections.) Some extra fillet welds have been added to the repair (original welds only at the ends on t'other side of the support web) - As soon as the black had tacked off enough to handle the bumper it got primer on the front (already prepared - much scrubbing and sanding before a dose of Fertan) - along with the finisher strip that goes beneath the radiator grille (left hanging on the washing line & I forgot to take a photo) and all the brackets had a coat after a bit of bending & bashing to get them the right shape and for good measure the bonnet release lever too - Something to do while paint dried: sort out the seized fixings on the front indicator lamps - Right side lamp was just a case of getting the flanged nuts off the studs (lots of wire brush and easing oil) then locking two M5 nuts on each stud so that they could be screwed back in to the lamp until they just bottom in the holes. Left side lamp came off the van with half a support post missing, possibly because the stud has been screwed in too far. Thanks to raewaters' tip about bicarb and super glue it got rebuilt around the stud somewhat more quickly than using Araldite rapid - Lamps installed using a 1/4 inch drive handle: easier to use than a ratchet handle and also less chance of breaking the lamps ... the trick is to stop tightening as soon as the lamp support posts meet the metal of the wing - At some point the side repeaters either will be improved on or even deleted - wasn't an option on CF2 models as far as I can work out - because they don't match and the wiring is cr*p - Cibie headlump supports next - including cleaning up the adjuster screw threads (tool is a piece of brake tube with one end squashed in a vice) - Whether the Cibie supports will last long depends on the lamps passing the MoT test because the reflectors have started corroding around the side lamp holes and it's going to be easier & a lot cheaper to fit Wipac supports for sealed beam lamps than find some new Cibie lamps with the right fittings. ----------------------
Wed 04 May 2011 @ 23:24
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Rain stopped play Headlamp reassembly: adjusters first - Then the headlamps - The plastic moulding slots into the headlamp tab then is turned 90 degrees. And working - Things started getting a bit messy from here because liberal quantities of warm WaxOyl were applied to all the bumper fittings prior to installation and afterwards. Bumper front support brackets fitted: captive nuts click in to the slots in the brackets; left hand bracket has a notch to identify it from the right hand one - End support brackets loosely attached to bumper (right side; left side is mirror image) - Bumper installed and centralised with just the 4 Torx head screws fitted to hold it in place - Then the end bracket to front panel bolts 1 were fitted after which bolts 2 could be nipped up to just hold the bracket against the welded bumper support web then all the bolts tightened in the order 1, 2 - Stand back a bit to check that the bumper is on straight (amazingly it was - not very often that happens) then loosely fit the left hand inner wing bracket (bolt and stud 2, the stud in lieu of another M8 bolt because I'd run out of M8 bolts) then the plastic corner piece - Tightening order is M8 fasteners first then the M6 ones as numbered so that the corner piece can be pushed & pulled to align properly with the bumper and wing. Step back again, to realise that the finisher strip that fits below the radiator grille should have been in place first. Um. A top coat of paint that got lathered on the inside of the strip earlier on wasn't quite cured but clouds were gathering so it went on regardless - Only one original plug for the plastic peg at the end of the finisher (found inside the wing when cleaning out accumulated crud) so a rubber grommet was used for the other side. Self tapping screws to the support brackets have plastic washers like the bumper Torx head bolts. Left side corner needed a tweak, followed by fitting the right side corner. A quick squint at the weather then flat down the finisher front face for a top coat of coach enamel, not a grey that I had in mind but dark crimson. This is because when I dug out the red oxide primer I found 4 litre of Superfleet that I'd forgotten about that was mixed to match Tekaloid dark crimson 2 vans back (LDV as it happen). No argument: give dark crimson a go, see whether I like it. Managed to get a coat on and tack dry before it started raining so the grille and number plate were thrown on to make the van usable - Hmm. Hard to tell from just a thin strip & it should go a shade darker second coat. Rae's van looks good in a similar colour though and there's a set of chrome hub cabs and embellishers that came with the van... ----------------------
Thu 05 May 2011 @ 21:52
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	Looks great Phil ----------------------
Fri 06 May 2011 @ 07:17
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline	re paint job Looking good Phil.......you have been a busy bee !! You never cease to surprise doing so much with so little Blue Peter would be very proud indeed. Margaret ----------------------
Fri 06 May 2011 @ 16:52
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