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Anon
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Took the finisher strip off to flat it down for a second coat of colour, which went on well thinned down some, then decided to try the bumper the same colour instead of black -
Took the best part of 5 hours, mostly dealing with patches of rust pitting that needed a thin skim of filler and lots of flatting down; removing the corner pieces and other bits to leave the bumper supported just by the end brackets was relatively effortless, in a way a reward for the time & effort in getting everything cleaned up and fitting nicely.
Considering that the paint is rather old and I had to lay it on as quickly as I could to avoid brush marks I'm quite pleased with the result: there are some brush marks where I kicked off a bit too slowly and there's a few rust pits and bumps that I'd missed but they should fill & flat out for the second coat.
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 Sat 07 May 2011 @ 00:25
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Anon
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The day before setting off for the May meet in the Midlands some kind soul broke one of the mirror arms when the van was parked up. I could have fitted the original Vitaloni mirror but I thought that giving it a go with superglue & bicarb was worth a try -
Interesting how the (new not so long ago) die-cast mirror arm is shedding paint and corroding quite rapidly; wondering now whether the zinc content is acting like a sacrificial anode because existing rust spots on the doors haven't got any worse since fitting the LandRover arms & heads...
Anyway, mirror arm still intact after a 200-odd mile round trip and good enough for MoT test. Whether the rest of the van is fit for MoT test remains to be seen.
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Mon 16 May 2011 @ 13:06
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Anon
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Well bite me - passed MoT test
A few advisories: slight play in front wheel bearings and a track rod end. As soon as the rain stops I can deal with those.
Emissions came out at 2.28% CO and 165 ppm HC.
Headlamps dip was biased for LHD: some silly sod had got the Cibie bias switch wrong way about; this is the position for LHD -
Sorted. 
Tester also commented that the tow ball obscures the rear number plate. It does if viewed at number plate level but that's how it came -
Otherwise the number plate isn't obscured in terms of speed camera angle; I think that I'll worry about it if ever Plod moans about it. Can always take the tow ball off if need be.
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Mon 16 May 2011 @ 16:41
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Anon
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Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Congratulations 
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Mon 16 May 2011 @ 18:30
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Anon
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Does a cf get up to enough speed for the cameras to worry about?
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Mon 16 May 2011 @ 19:15
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Anon
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Unfortunately, yes. Ive just got a ticket for doing 35 in a 30 zone, but cant work out how, because the camera is only 20 yards from the end of my road, and the lights are always red!
Gonna frame it though!
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Mon 16 May 2011 @ 19:43
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Anon
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Since replacing the hydraulic lifters (cam followers) the engine has been running so much better that I had a play with some numbers to see whether fuel consumption has actually changed much.
Using a rolling average basis (i.e. mpg over 100 mile or thereabouts) -
Steady decline from best initial figures (after broken valve springs and other inherited bugs sorted over a period) bumped up a bit when the spark plugs were renewed but replacing the rattling lifters seems to have made a substantial difference.
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 00:14
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Hello Phil,
What a success story, gaining 6.5 mpg from the start to where you are now: that must be getting to be one of the most economical Bedfords on the road. Can you see yourself breaking the 25 mpg mark?
Rae & Ann
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 20:27
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Anon
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I can do about 300 mile on a gallon of tea ... oh, the van.
Well, there's about 15 litre still in the tank & lumping that in takes the last rolling average point up to 26.8mpg. However, I expect the curve to flatten out some once there's more data.
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 20:45
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Anon
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philbradshaw wrote:
I can do about 300 mile on a gallon of tea ...
Hello Phil,
The burning question is......how many stops? Now THAT would be impressive.
I have to confess I, too, am a tea jenny; the only reason I drink coffee is because most people can't make it properly.
Very impressed with your fuel figures, it's a pity it isn't a slant you're using then it would give me something to strive for. Just one point Phil, when we do our fuel figures we take 10% off the mileage due to speedo error: which we checked with the SatNav.
Rae & Ann
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 21:26
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Anon
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Hi when you checked against satnav did you just check speed or both as the mileage as the speed is magnetic driven and mileage is gear driver strait of the cable giving a much more accurate figure?
Matt
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 21:38
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Speedo (i.e. odometer) error on mine now it's on 195R14 tyres is on the minus side, about 2% at 1980kg with the rear tyres at 40psi, so I ignore it.
Speedometer itself is set to read 30mph at 30mph actual road speed, this after discovering that the speedo had been tampered with - why the pointer wouldn't return to the zero stop until I fixed it.
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 21:45
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Anon
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Hello Matt,
Valid point. It was checked on the M6, perfectly straight road, the speedometer is out and the mileage was done seperately and that's why we always take 10% off. This has been done on two or three occasions and has always returned the same figures.
Rae & Ann
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 21:47
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Anon
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wish the digital speedo on my bike was that accurate, 60 on the clocks is actually 54 by satnav.
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 21:50
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Anon
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Hi Rae I'm lucky, take anything that needs checking to my dads as he's a farmer and the drive is exactly half a mile as you drive into the yard, bit short but it does work.
Matt
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Mon 23 May 2011 @ 21:53
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Anon
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Stitch in time Delco starter fix
The time came to deal with worn starter motor brushes and bearings before the starter motor gave up completely; brush set is Wood Auto SBR 585, bearings are Cargo 140500, a whole £5 -
EDIT: bits supplied by Osborne's of Moss Lane, Royton, Oldham. 01706 847 581.
Repair
Starting with the earth brush -
Old brush cut off leaving about 8mm of braid intact that was tinned; new brush braid splayed out by pushing a ball pen down the middle -
New brush braid wrapped over tinned old braid, bound with a thin strand of copper wire (left) then soldered (right) -
Field brushes replaced likewise; original insulation sleeve (blue) retained to slide over the new brush insulation -
This is so that the solder connections can be insulated by the original sleeves because the new sleeves wouldn't pass over the solder joints -
Drive end bearing was well worn -
After driving out the worn bearing a new, pre-oiled bearing was pressed in using a bolt, nut and washers (3/8 inch bolt used) -
Check fit of armature shaft in new bearing -
Commutator end bush was left alone because there was no difference in fit of the armature shaft between old & new bushes -
The apparent wear of the commutator end cover isn't anything to worry about: it's the face against which the armature brake ring bears on as the starter disengages -
The brake ring must stay dry or it won't work; any lubricant used for the commutator end bearing must be sparingly applied.
The slot 'A' is where the peg 'A' of the yoke locates -
Putting it all back together
Armature thrust washer in place before locating armature assembly in drive end bracket -
Then yoke located on drive end bracket -
The fiddly bit: brush springs and brushes assembled into brush holder using rubber bands to hold things together -
Then install brush holder after which the rubber bands can be snapped and removed -
Commutator end cover installed -
The through bolts are loosely fitted to locate the end cover while the brush holder securing screws are installed and tightened.
Drive end bracket then removed leaving the armature in place so that the solenoid lever assembly can be installed -
Before finally installing through bolts the insulation (sticky tape) was replaced by heat shrink tubing -
Solenoid lever pivot pin and circlip -
Head of pivot pin fits in a recess on one side of the drive end bracket -
Solenoid and return spring -
installed -
The solenoid needs to be pushed against return spring pressure in order to insert the Torx head screws.
Field coils link lead secured to solenoid terminal -
Commutator end support bracket -
installed with washers each side of the bracket -
The nuts are only finger tight to allow for adjustment of support bracket position when starter installed on engine.
A quick test of the starter using jump leads is a good idea before installing it on the engine. One thing to check is that the armature does slow down very quickly as soon as power is disconnected; this confirms that the brake at the commutator end is working.
Installation
I've found it best to get the commutator end support bracket position right before sorting out the wiring; after the two 17mm A/F head bolts (1) are tightened the bolt (2) can be nipped up after which the nuts (3) can be tightened -
Bolt (2) has to be removed before the wiring can be sorted -
The engine harness to the left is secured by a clip that goes under the head of the bolt (2).
Comparison of old brushes against a new one -
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Sat 28 May 2011 @ 16:29
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Anon
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nice to know what mine should look like under the grime !
awesome step by step piccies 
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Sat 28 May 2011 @ 17:50
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Anon
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Hope that you replaced that solenoid leaver as the pivot points have worn to half and wont be long before your replacing it again if you ain't done so.
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Sat 28 May 2011 @ 18:46
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Gethin wrote:
the pivot points have worn to half and wont be long before your replacing it again
Well spotted! I have got one but it's from a nearly new starter that I don't want to break -
The worn lever arm is working ok for now though so I've got time to get another one & it won't take long to change it.
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Sat 28 May 2011 @ 20:27
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Anon
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Fuel pump leaking oil no more ... hopefully
Had to bite the bullet and get a new fuel pump in the hope that it will cure the worsening oil leak, the spare used pump faring no better than the original one here dribbling oil from a vent hole -
New pump got to be a Moprod one for the Opel Rekord, for under £10 rather than the silly money that CF ones go for.
It's the same type with identical plunger stroke with being for the cam in head engine but the inlet and outlet are in different positions -
The outlet also is smaller diameter but that can be accommodated by warming up 6mm rubber hose in hot water so that it will stretch to fit the 8mm pipe to the carburettor.
This is why I went for a Moprod pump -
The top can be rotated in relation to the bottom so that the outlet position falls right for clearing the alternator mounting.
This means tapping out the spare six holes but the screws are neither 4mm nor 11/32-inch, the only sizes of taps that I could lay my hands on without emptying the shed (& maybe not finding the right thread even then).:?
Bugrit: 11/32-inch UNF first taper tap used to start a thread for the screws to bite into then roll new threads into the alloy body using the screws.
Pump installed -
I wasn't too bothered where the inlet landed, just the outlet because the pipe to the carburettor runs close to the alternator mounting & there's nowhere else for it to run really.
The Moprod pump doesn't have a screen filter like the CF pump so this installation also needs a line filter on the tank side of the pump, installed underneath the heater box -
Terry clip works alright on its own but an O-ring stretched across the ends should makes sure that the filter stays put.
Using 6mm hose on the inlet side of the filter and 8mm on the outlet was determined by not enough 8mm hose to do both. Might make me think about which way round the filter goes when it's time to replace it...
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Thu 02 Jun 2011 @ 19:55
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