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Anon
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Starter pinion lever
Osborne's in Royton came up with a pinion lever (£4, Cargo part number 130844) -
Solenoid is the first bit to withdraw after releasing the field coils link lead and removing the Torx head screws -
The brush holder screws don't need to be disturbed because the only the drive end plate needs to come off to release the pinion lever.
Once the pivot pin is removed the through bolts also can be removed -
Pinion lever drops out once the drive end plate is withdrawn -
Spring pin that retains the lever to the solenoid plunger can be driven out of the plunger stem by supporting the lever on a socket -
When fitting the new lever the spring pin should be aligned centrally in the solenoid plunger stem -
Reassembly: contact surfaces lubricated with LM grease then the lever assembly is placed in position -
followed by the drive end plate that then can be secured by refitting the through bolts -
Pivot pin installed -
When installing the solenoid the lip that slots into the gap between the yoke and drive end plate needs coating with silicone RTV (Loctite 598 used) before rotating the solenoid to refit the Torx head screws -
Gap can be completely sealed once the Torx head screws are tight -
(There didn't seem to be much point in sealing the gap when the brushes were replaced because the starter was going to come apart again for the pinion lever.)
A possible reason for the wear of the pinion lever fork pads: marking on the lever -
This marking & corresponding marking on the flange of the solenoid plunger suggests that the lever may have been incorrectly installed at some time in the life of the starter -
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 Sat 04 Jun 2011 @ 14:32
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Anon
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Turned out nice again...
It's painting weather so, with a few days before my next slave job shifts, I decided to get some paint on the sill under the side load door before all the undercoat washed off & while I was at it also fettle the back bumpers.
Managed part of it, the sill and one back bumper -
This was because I discovered tin worm in the sill closing panel while jet washing mud & crud from under the wheel arch. It got to be a quick cover-up though, to seal up the sill from spray, rather than end up with the van off the road for too long while making a piece and welding it in (& likely find more thin tin to replace...).
Before and after -
Pieces of plastic chippy tray lid stuck in with filler after a dose of Fertan on the rust then a couple of layers of paint lathered on. Liberal amount of Waxoyl inside the sill before replacing the plastic plugs then more over the paint. At least it will knock out easily enough when the time comes to make a proper job of it.
Rear lower corner wasn't too bad but the bumper brackets were somewhat twisted and rusty; took as long to clean up & mend the brackets as it did to prepare the corner & get 2 coats of paint on it (about 4 hours between coats)-
More Waxoyl, inside the rear lower corner and over everything that the bumper covers.
And then the bumper: layers of paint scrubbed off using 120 grade aluminium oxide, smoothed off using 240 wet&dry then finished with 0 grade steel wool; seemed to take forever.
Distortion due to the exhaust tailpipe being aimed into the bumper in the past life of the van wasn't too hard to straighten out using a hot air gun but the reflector wasn't for being mended so had to go back in pretty much as it came out -
Doesn't look much different from the back -
but the bumper fits a bit better along the side now -
and now it'll unbolt without any problems when the rear valance gets done - one of the original Torx head bolt snapped in the side bracket, hence the hexagon head bolt nearest the number plate.
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Wed 29 Jun 2011 @ 22:09
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Anon
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Window regulator
Time for the driver's door window regulator to be replaced came when the handle carried on turning when the window was shut. Shouldn't take long I thought; the job time is only 0.8 hour...
Getting the regulator out isn't too hard, starting with the door trim.
Lock release plastic escutcheon is best removed by levering along a longer edge where the clips are to avoid adding to an existing break by levering at a shorter edge -
Pull handle simply unscrews; screw heads are No 3 size -
Regulator handle also unscrews after the plastic filler is removed -
If the clip 1 is pushed out with a finger from the back of the handle then a thin screwdriver blade can be inserted between the filler & handle to release clip 2 after which the peg 3 should pop out easily (if it's not already been broken by previous incorrect removal).
Door trim panel then can be removed. A small paint scraper with a 6mm slot ground in the edge inserted under the flange of each plastic retainer will prevent the retainers from pulling out of their slots in the panel -
With no damp check film behind the trim panel to remove (as ever...) the drop glass bottom stop next can be unscrewed -
Lower guide channel on the lock side of the door needs to come out; screws are on the door lock edge -
Channel should then slide off from the glazing rubber, shown here outside the door inner panel for clarity although the channel can only be removed through the larger aperture after it's clear of the glazing rubber -
The glass should come out without removing the door top edge seals but the inner seal is best removed to avoid damage if the roller guide on the bottom of the glass catches on it. Easy enough: prise up one of the ends then gently peel the seal from the door edge -
Regulator adjuster channel nuts can be removed and the channel withdrawn by sliding it from the roller on the end of the regulator balance arm -
The glass needs to be about half way down to disengage the remaining 2 rollers so it needs supporting at the top edge to prevent it from tipping & jamming when winding it down.
Once the glass is about half way down it can be tipped, lock side upwards, and disengaged from the rollers after which the glass can be turned some more, to about 90 degree from horizontal, then withdrawn upwards through the slot in the door.
Regulator then can be unbolted from the door inner panel. Once the regulator is detached from the panel the arms need to be held parallel so that the regulator can be rotated inside the door before it can be withdrawn lengthways through the larger aperture.
The problem -
Losing teeth at the top of the glass travel could have been due to slop in the drive spindle but another problem existed: part of the top glazing rubber had folded inwards and prevented the glass from fully closing without a fight. After failing to persuade the rubber to behave because it was so hard that it started disintegrating the answer was to find one in better condition -
(Add 1 hour to job time ... spare rubber hiding in a black bag in box of wiper bits, not door bits; note to self - tidy up spares collection...)
The glazing side rubber on the lock side needs to be fully upwards in its channel for the top rubber to butt against it. The side rubber wouldn't budge though so it had to be removed first by pulling it downwards out of its channel then refitted using water and some liquid soap & pushing it up the channel until it butted against the top.
Water and liquid soap also are needed to press the top rubber into the channel groove lips in the top of the door using a tool about 8mm wide -
Once the rubber is secure in the channel the outer lips can be located on the edges of the inner & outer door panels -
Glazing rubber on the hinge side checked as well: no problems found this time - sometimes they're twisted & prevent the glass from moving smoothly.
Spare regulator wasn't hard to find; difficulty was choosing the best of two in not very good condition, both having some spindle wear and neither spindle drive friction washers doing much to prevent a glass dropping on its own.
First peen the spindle to reduce the slop in the drive; a screw in the drive is needed to support the spindle rather than damage the die-cast part -
Then compress the spindle body until the friction washers can be felt to work when the regulator arm is moved -
(Another half an hour or so gone - vice in shed, shed full of stuff with nowhere else to live at present ... some scrap batteries unearthed to add to the weigh-in pile for next week though so not so bad.)
The glass that came out had lots of scratches on it where it looks like over-spray from a paint job has been removed using sandpaper. Another rummage to find a better glass then remove similar over-spray but using a thin scraper with the edge stropped on leather to remove all burrs, and lots of water -
A rust stain, probably due to drips from the gutter edge finisher on the van that the glass came from, took a lot of vinegar and polishing to make any impression on it. (Another half hour or so...).
Install.
Regulator bolts in easily enough; needs to be wound to about half-way before installing the glass.
Glass goes hinge side first through the slot in the door after which it's a fiddle to engage the regulator arm rollers in the channel in the glass then engage the glass in the side glazing rubbers, hinge side first then the lock side once the hinge side is properly located.
Adjuster channel next, same way around as it came off but nuts left loose -
Glass needs to be supported with its top edge roughly horizontal so that the adjuster channel studs can be manoeuvred through the door panel holes.
Once the glass is raised and supported with its top edge parallel with the door top edge the adjuster channel position can be adjusted to suit and the nuts tightened.
Glass lower stop next, rubber pad uppermost -
The original felt pad on the door outer skin side has disappeared; maybe best left like that because it can hold water.
Lock side lower channel can be slipped onto the glazing rubber using water & liquid soap; once it's installed the screws can be tightened with the glass fully down against its lower stop -
Now an important bit: check that the glass moves freely throughout its travel and especially when it engages the top glazing channel. The glass should be engaged in the top channel by about 1 inch, confirmed using a strip of Scotch tape and a ball pen -
Damp check film reinstated using polythene bag and peelable vinyl tape: roughly cut to size using the door card as a template -
Loosely stuck on, door release and regulator spindle holes cut -
Taped all round then trimmed where anything shows when door card fitted -
White foam pad around regulator spindle is closed cell type, i.e. won't soak up water.
Once the door card is installed the pull handle, lock release escutcheon and regulator handle are the last bits to go on. Regulator handle position should be vertically downwards when the glass is fully raised.
Only a little job, but it ended up taking best part of 4 hours. Oh the joys of looking after a 25-year-old CF2. 
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Sat 06 Aug 2011 @ 15:59
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Anon
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Ouch
What happens when someone in a Toyota Aygo wanders across a junction without looking; greasy wet road surface didn't help.
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 14:10
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Anon
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Oh no  Hope you are ok !
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 16:12
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Anon
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hope your ok,maybe some of the members on here may have some of the parts you need to help repair hopefully.
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 16:23
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Anon
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I'm ok & driver & 3 kids in the Toyota just shaken up - ever so relieved about that. Toyota could be a write-off though - front wing, door, suspension, bonnet, front panel.
Got the front panel off mine to weigh up what's needed. About the only thing that I might be stuck for is an indicator lamp - rest is tin bashing, a lick of paint & bring forward fitting new headlamps & supports if the Cibie headlamp support won't straighten out & adjusters click back together.
Popped welds in the seam above the front panel lower mounting point will need re-welding but it might make it a bit easier to pull the corner straight -
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 17:02
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Anon
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Glad to hear that. Beddies = tanks? 
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 17:47
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Anon
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I'm sure you'll have that fixed up in no time Phil,
best thing no one hurt,  thought you'd got a bit jealous
of the French members tin bashing
note to self fit bull bar..8D
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 18:10
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Anon
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I should have an indicator lamp going spare . let you know tomorrow..
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 20:09
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Anon
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ds
if u dont have one i have one u can have
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 20:34
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Anon
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So far so good
I might have struck lucky with an indicator lamp: one on greedbay described as offside but picture is of a nearside one; we'll see when it turns up.
Meanwhile a few problems: lower mounting holes for the front panel about 8mm out sideways & outrigger twisted, bonnet fouling wing edge and passenger door not closing properly.
Home made body puller, the straining rope to keep the 6ft bar from moving being tied to the bottom of a fence post -
Starting at the bottom, twisted outrigger section pulled straight with a bit of help with a big rubber mallet -
Red lines indicate how much twist came out; straight stick of wood & a tape measure to make sure outrigger front matches offside.
After lots more pulling using every hole available (more time figuring out where to pull & in what order than actual pulling) -
No tin bashing as such yet; wing needs to be pulled out at the top to open up the gap along the bonnet edge and it might be best to weld up the popped joins around the outrigger before going much further.
Door closes fine now though & front panel is back on temporarily to confirm bolt holes are where they should be.
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Sun 28 Aug 2011 @ 21:06
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Anon
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Got an indicator lamp if you want
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Mon 29 Aug 2011 @ 14:11
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Anon
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A day of dodging showers ... but managed to do the welding around the outrigger, bash the wing into shape, skin some filler over the ripples that wouldn't behave and throw some paint on for flatting off to disclose the imperfections -
Also dealt with the surface rust around the edge of the wheel arch and a pre-existing dent at the front lower corner of the arch.
Front panel didn't take much to straighten around the headlamp support & panel edge -
A good job that the panel doesn't show when the bumper & grille are on ... a case of as long as the headlamp sits right the rest doesn't really matter.
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Tue 30 Aug 2011 @ 20:42
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Anon
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hot dang! Phil, Im sure Im not the only one who is amazed at how quickly you work... but that paint job on your bumper was a valiant effort, hope the dings come out of that ok!
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Tue 30 Aug 2011 @ 21:32
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Anon
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The bumper & brackets might take a while to sort out because they took the brunt of the impact that did this to the Toyota (mashed the suspension too but it doesn't show in the photo) -
Also shoved the van sideways about 2ft.
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Tue 30 Aug 2011 @ 22:25
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Anon
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glad to see your rebuild wait's for no man phil
glad all involved were fine apart from the vehicles taht is,
the toyota will be pop cans and toilet paper by the looks of it 
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Wed 31 Aug 2011 @ 19:10
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Anon
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Street legal, just
Bumper was a pain to get tolerably straight -
How the corner sits now, a bit too far back but at least it's on -
Gaffer tape isn't doing anything useful but it'll avoid anyone whingeing about sharp edges where the corner bumper is split.
Spare grille glued up where it was broken around the nearside headlamp aperture (how it came), finisher strip below grille sort of straight and Wipac headlamp plastic bowls installed -
The Wipac bowls (with the backs cut off) are for new headlamps but they haven't arrived yet so the damaged Cibie lamp, support & adjusters got a seeing to, along with a spare (broken) indicator lamp that I'd forgotten about until it appeared when I was looking for something else -
Took a whole 5g bottle of superglue & nearly half a pot of bicarb to fettle the Cibie stuff & the indicator lamp ... but they're on, sort of, & working.
Street legal now though and a ToDo list to work through to make it tidy -
Bumper really needs the welded brace at the end grinding off to ding out the buckle where the corner bumper fits over then a new brace welding in.
Wing still not quite right - too tight on the grille edge and too high at the bonnet line - but it only needs a pull of 5mm or so & I can live with it like that for a while.
Front panel needs a tweak too because the grille pulls in too tight at the bottom.
Finisher strip needs a dolly making to fit inside the top edge where it's rolled over 180 degree to get the ripple out under the headlamp.
Replace headlamps, hopefully before the damaged Cibie lamp falls out (the adjusters are on their last legs).
Replace indicator lamp (ditto - only 2 studs in the lamp & b-all holding them in under the superglue + bicarb).
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Wed 31 Aug 2011 @ 21:34
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Anon
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Sorry to hear about the pang but once again I am in awe of the speed and quality of your work!
Loving this blog
Steve
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Fri 02 Sep 2011 @ 14:45
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Anon
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philbradshaw wrote:
Took a whole 5g bottle of superglue & nearly half a pot of bicarb
Hello Phil,
I actually got quite good results using the multi pack imitation superglue that you find in the pound shops: seems to work just as well.
Rae & Ann
P.S. Is your wing mirror still staying on?
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Fri 02 Sep 2011 @ 21:48
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