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Anon
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Engine mounting replacement

The engine mountings on my van need replacing. The block knocks in to the bulkhead when the engine is switched off, and there is a distinct left-to-right wobble when pulling away fast from a junction. A visual inspection found the mounts to be perished and a bit saggy. A pair of Quinton Hazell EM1448s were acquired.

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The first job is to take the weight off the mountings so they can be removed. Use a trolley jack and a large lump of wood to spread the load. Obstructions here included the crossmember, steering rack and the bottom of the injector pump. Try to avoid supporting the engine from the back of the sump or you may damage the sump plug. Just to be doubly sure, place an axle stand underneath in case the jack gives way. To be triply sure, I packed some plywood offcuts between the sump and the crossmember.



I opted to start with the passenger side mounting because it is the more fiddly of the two. Remove the nut securing the mounting to the crossmember using a 13mm spanner and remove the three bolts securing the bracket to the engine block using a 17mm socket set. Extension bars of varying lengths are needed to avoid the alternator wiring (and glow plugs if you have a diesel)
If your mountings are worn like mine, the bracket will spring upwards at this point!



Withdraw the bracket with the rubber mounting attached



Mark the orientation of the mounting and separate the rubber from the bracket.You should have the following fixings:



I decided to rub down and paint the brackets



You may have read elsewhere on this site that the QH engine mounts do not come with locating dowels. The workaround used on my van is a 'Phil Bradshaw special' using 1/4" sellock roll pins, acquired from my local odds-and-ends shop for a cool 8 pence each!





Using the engine bracket as a template, drill a 7/32" hole through the steel, taking care to not go too deeply in to the rubber. Once all the swarf is removed and the roll pin is inserted (the absence of any kind of specialist tool meant that I did this with mole grips and a small hammer) you should have something like the image below. Repeat this step until you have dowels in both mountings.



Loosely attach the mounting to the engine bracket and offer this up to your van. I had to raise the engine block in order to align the bracket with the bolt holes and ensure the locating pegs were in their correct locations.



Once the bolts are all fully tightened, remove the axle stand and pieces of timber and slowly lower the jack, keeping an eye on the engine mountings to ensure they do not move when a large lump of cast iron comes to rest on them.



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Now go and make a brew because you are half way there. My top tip is to not agree to look after a friend's dog when working on a CF. When they get bored of rummaging in the food cupboard they find an old engine mounting and think it is the best dog-toy ever made!



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The drivers side mounting is easier to access. The main obstructions here are the crossmember and steering column. Once the bracket is removed, you should have something that looks like this.



Once your work is complete, the driver's side mounting should look like this:

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Wed 11 Aug 2010 @ 22:44 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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;] You shouldn't have to worry about replacing the mountings for a good long while now.

Now the engine is more or less where it should sit you might find that stuff that's been fitted or worked on with soggy mountings needs moving or re-aligning if it's touching the body anywhere. Favourite is the exhaust - a small twist at the front can have a large effect further back.

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Wed 11 Aug 2010 @ 22:56 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Check the gearbox mounting as well that could have taken a beating because of your soggy engine mounts.

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Thu 12 Aug 2010 @ 08:36 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Thanks for posting this- Im getting the classic judder in 1st and reverse, and despite having Phil help me bolt the gearbox mounting correctly- they had been put on incorrectly in the past- I had the clutch replaced by one of Roi's reccommended garages- the problem remains, so will likely be following suit in the near future.

That is, unless theres something else I dont know about...

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Thu 12 Aug 2010 @ 08:53 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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philbradshaw wrote:
You shouldn't have to worry about replacing the mountings for a good long while now.


I am also certain that they will outlast the van given the rate the rust is eating it!

Gethin wrote:
Check the gearbox mounting as well


Gearbox mount didn't look too bad before, but with new engine mounts it looks a bit rubbish by comparison!
Can anyone help with a part number? I have a 4 speed ZF box

philbradshaw wrote:
Now the engine is more or less where it should sit you might find that stuff that's been fitted or worked on with soggy mountings needs moving or re-aligning if it's touching the body anywhere. Favourite is the exhaust


I think it is just body panels receiving the vibration; hopefully more revs than tickover will cause this to ease. Once I get the new throttle cable I will give the van a test run and report back

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Thu 12 Aug 2010 @ 09:22 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Ed-Don wrote:
Can anyone help with a part number? I have a 4 speed ZF box

Mounting is the same for all manual gearboxes except early CF2 with 5-speed - just watch which way round it's fitted.

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Thu 12 Aug 2010 @ 15:28 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
Anon
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Now that my throttle cable has been sorted, I can give the van a test run.

  • The clutch response on take off seems to have improved, allowing me to pull away faster in 1st gear. This may not be attributable to the mountings - the clutch cable was loose when I replaced the mountings and I reattached it to the clip on the crossmember

  • The engine appears to be quieter at high rpm. Initially I thought this was because the adjusted throttle cable could not fully open the injector pump, but I can still hit the same maximum speed down the M5!

  • A few rattles have appeared since replacing the mounts. Back doors, new kitchen units, gearknob and side door are the culprits - prevent them rattling and the noise goes away

  • I can feel engine vibration through the throttle pedal. This means I can drive and get a foot massage at the same time!

  • The proper test run takes place on the way to Worcester on the 22nd

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    Sun 15 Aug 2010 @ 21:08 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
    Anon
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    After the proper test run, the mountings seem to have softened a little as the vibration in the cab is nowhere near as bad. The van pulls better on hills than before, even with the boat on the back.

    Good fuel economy on this run - 332 miles on 49 litres is pretty good going for a 27 year old van with a 38' boat on the back!

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    Mon 23 Aug 2010 @ 15:56 Edit this messageQuote this messagePMQuote this message
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