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Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
Headlights cutting out I'm after a bit of help tracking down a previous thread that I just can't find using the search function.Mikeyboy provided the following clip concerning the CF1 pull out light switch and way it cuts out if the headlights have been upgraded. I'm certain I've seen a more detailed account of how to do this upgrade including pictures. Can anyone point me at it? thanks Tony ============================================================== In the words of our own guru... philbradshaw wrote: Headlights pull switch with thermal trip can't cope with anything more than 60/40 pre-focus candles ... & often neither can the original dash wiring! Fit 2 relays, 1 for dip & 1 for main, under the bonnet with a new supply from the starter solenoid (disconnect battery first!). Supply cable should be 28-strand minimum and MUST have a 30A line fuse. This will by-pass problems you're likely to have with the dash wiring & bulkhead connector terminals without needing to change the original pull switch. Assuming your van is early enough not to have 12-fuse fusebox in the cab - Under the bonnet, pick out blue+red (dip) & blue+white (main) near the bulkhead connector by the bonnet hinge (left side viewed from the front). Cut these cables then use the bulkhead ends for firing the relays and the other ends for supplying the headlights from the relays. If you've got pairs of blue+red & blue+white cables then only one of the bulkhead ends of each is needed for the relays; other ends should be joined together at the relays or you'll only get one headlamp working. Relays coils earth connections can be under mounting screws for the relays or relay sockets if used. ---------------------- | Sun 02 Sep 2012 @ 12:18 |
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
It's an old post but I'm eventually getting round to doing this job and now I'm confused about the last bit mentioned about joining the cables at the relay. Note - Early van without the 12 fuse box in the cab. Push/Pull switch for the lights that overheats due to uprated lamps. Looking at the centre one of the three bulkhead connectors, there seems to be a single fat Blue+red striped cable and a single fat Blue+white striped cable. These go into the loom, down to the o/s headlamp area and then there's a load of cable spewing out that looks as if it splits away to both lamps. Four wires go to each headlamp. So the question is do I just cut at the bulkhead and send a single wire to trigger each relay - one main and one dip? No need for anything further. thanks for any info Tony | Sun 28 Jul 2013 @ 18:39 |
Gethin Card Holder Posts : 462 Location : east lancs Status : Offline |
What phil was saying is fit 2 new relays in the engine bay 1 for dip 1 for main beam. now using the original wires for the dip and main beam need to be fitted to the switching input of the relays . the other switched terminal to earth. now using a new piece of cable connect the input of both relays to the battery terminal in the starter solenoid via a 20amp fuse. the remaining terminal the relay is connected to the dip or main beam this way the thermal trip on the switch will not be tripping as all the switch will be feeding is the relays. | Sun 28 Jul 2013 @ 21:35 |
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
right now i couldnt find my old post so im jumping on this one hope you dont mind .. now ive got spot lights ive got a 30amp relay kit im moving my starer battery and putting in a big powerful battery in its place . then im gonna wire then up as ive been shown so that i have them in relay . still with me.. now wot im going to do is run a wire through the relay kit to the lights and then to a switch on my dash board missing out any of the vans own wiring so that i can switch the lights on just by the switch ..make sense ???? lol ---------------------- | Mon 07 Oct 2013 @ 22:36 |
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
so basically im wiring the spot lights straight from the battery to a switch that will turn them on ...............that way it cant blow anything in the van ...yea ---------------------- | Mon 07 Oct 2013 @ 22:40 |
Colin Birch Admin Posts : 4275 Location : Pontypridd, South Wales Status : Offline |
Your original post on spot lights is HERE They shouldn't be wired direct from the battery to a switch. They should be wired through relays and also so that they can only be used with the headlights. Just follow the wiring diagram in the original thread and you can't go wrong(!) ---------------------- | Mon 07 Oct 2013 @ 23:18 |
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
hi Colin. ive got relay but i really only wanted them to work on a switch is there a reason i should not do this ?? ah i think its cos they are halogen bulbs and ive been told that they can fry your wiring ..............im i wrong ...................probably ill copy that diagram right now old son lol ---------------------- | Mon 07 Oct 2013 @ 23:49 |
Gethin Card Holder Posts : 462 Location : east lancs Status : Offline |
ALL forward facing lamps have to be able to switch off by 1 switch all at the same time. lighting regs ... you can wire them up via a switch but they must come on with either main beam or if you have them mounted below bumper they can be wired via dip supply... | Tue 08 Oct 2013 @ 21:01 |
Anon Deleted Posts : Location : Status : Offline |
agggg ---------------------- | Tue 08 Oct 2013 @ 22:39 |
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